I tried cleaning the pin and seal, but I still found resistance when moving the arm. The black rubber seal was easy to remove, and I found that the arm moved without resistance once this seal was off. On the underside of the cap, I saw the black rubber seal with a pin that slides through it as the arm goes up and down. Here is what the cap and arm look like when removed. It was easy to pull off this seal and confirm that the arm went up and down without resistance when the seal wasn't there. However, on the underside of the cap was a rubber seal that was causing lots of resistance. I found that in my case, after removing the cap off of the valve, the float was sliding up and down on the shaft very easily, so that didn't seem to be the problem. I did what BMitch described in his answer, and found the video linked by Lawrence Kesteloot to be very helpful just to understand what we're talking about. Cross your fingers and turn the water supply back on.With the water shutoff again, reassemble the valve, and attach it in the reverse process (lifting the lever on the float allows you to turn the cap with a little downward pressure on the cap).This process will clear any sediment out of the valve and supply line, including any sediment that may break free from the toilet shutoff valve. The cup prevents a small geyser from appearing in your bathroom and the water will drain into the toilet tank (this is why you flushed it earlier). While the cap is off, place a cup over the top of the valve and open the water supply for a few short bursts.Be sure to check inside of the cap where the lever is attached. Clean sediment or other buildup off any small components of the valve, and if anything is easily detached, remove it temporarily for the next step.You should then be able to lift the cap directly off. Open the valve by lifting the float to the top position, pressing down on the black plastic cap that covers the valve, and giving it a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. ![]()
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